The Artificial Turf Installation Checklist: Supplies, Specs & a Final QA Walk-Through

There’s a version of an artificial turf project that goes smoothly, and a version that turns into a weekend of second trips to the supply yard. The difference almost always comes down to one thing: whether you gathered the right materials, in the right amounts, with the right specs — before you broke ground.

This is the checklist we actually use. It’s split into two halves: everything you need to have on hand and dialed in before you start, and a final quality-control walk-through to run once the turf is down. It pairs with our step-by-step install guide — that guide is the how, this is the what-to-have and what-to-check. It’s written for the yards we work in every day: the caliche and heat of Arizona and the freeze-thaw winters of Utah.

Key takeaways:

• Order materials before you dig — the base, fabric, infill, fasteners, and seam supplies all need to be on hand so you’re not stalled mid-project.
• Get your quantities right with a calculator instead of guessing; the base is the most common thing people under-order.
• Use 5–6 inch non-galvanized turf nails — the light rust locks them into the compacted base so they don’t lift over time.
• Run the post-install QA walk-through the same day; wrinkles, lifted edges, and shallow infill are easy to fix early and a pain to fix late.

How the layers stack up

Before the checklist, it helps to picture what you’re actually building. An artificial turf lawn is a layered system, and every line on the supplies list maps to one of these layers:

From the ground up: compacted native soil, a weed barrier, 3–4 inches of compacted crushed aggregate base, a finer setting layer to shape the surface, then the turf with infill brushed down into the blades. Get the materials for each layer right and the install is mostly patience. For the full process behind this diagram, see how to install artificial turf.

Part 1 — The pre-install supplies checklist

Materials

• Artificial turf — measured so the nap (the direction the blades lean) runs the same way across every piece, usually toward your main viewing point. Turf comes in fixed roll widths, so plan your layout to minimize seams. Use our turf calculator to estimate how much you need.
• Crushed aggregate base — road base or 3/4-inch minus for the structural layer. This is the line people most often under-order. Don’t eyeball it: our sub-base calculator turns your square footage and depth into tons of base.
• Quarter-minus / decomposed granite (fines) — the finer top setting layer you smooth and shape before laying turf.
• Weed barrier fabric — to block growth from below while still letting water drain through.
• Infill — silica sand for most lawns, or a coated/antimicrobial pet-rated infill for dog areas. Infill is not optional; it keeps blades upright and protects the backing. See our turf infill page for the options.
• Seam tape and turf glue — only if your layout has more than one piece, but always have it on hand if you’re not sure.
• Non-galvanized turf nails (5–6 inch) and/or landscape staples — see the spec note below.

A quick note on nails

Use non-galvanized nails, not galvanized — and that’s deliberate. A non-galvanized nail develops a light surface rust down in the compacted aggregate, and that rust effectively welds the nail into the hard base so it can’t work its way back up over time. A shiny galvanized nail resists rust and is far more likely to lift a season or two later. It’s a small detail that separates a lawn that stays tight from one that develops popped edges.

Tools

• Sod cutter or flat shovel (for removing existing grass)
• Wheelbarrow and a steel / landscape rake
• Plate compactor (rentable) and a hand tamp for edges
• Turf stretcher or knee kicker
• Sharp utility knife with extra blades
• Stiff push broom or a power broom for working in infill
• Drop spreader for infill
• Garden hose, measuring tape, marking paint

Site prep checks before you dig

• Mark your area with paint or a string line and confirm your square footage one more time.
• Locate sprinkler lines, low-voltage lighting, and utilities so you don’t cut into them during excavation.
• Plan your drainage direction — the finished surface should slope gently away from the house, about 1 inch of fall per 8–10 feet.
• In Arizona, plan for caliche. That hard, cement-like calcium layer won’t let water drain, so plan to break through or dig past it where you hit it.
• In Utah and freeze-thaw climates, commit to a clean, well-draining base — trapped moisture that freezes is what causes heaving.

Part 2 — The post-install QA walk-through

Once the turf is down, fastened, and the infill is brushed in, don’t pack up yet. Run this walk-through the same day. Everything here is easy to fix in the first hours and progressively harder once infill settles and the sun sets the backing.

1. Base check (do this one before the turf goes down)

The single most important checkpoint, and the one to verify before any turf is laid: the base should be firm, flat, and hold a footprint barely if at all. Walk across it. If your boot sinks or leaves a deep print, add fines, mist, and compact again. A ripple or soft spot here will telegraph straight through the finished turf.

2. Tension — no wrinkles or bubbles

Look across the lawn at a low angle, with the light raking across it. The turf should be pulled taut with no waves, bubbles, or ripples. If you see one, it usually means the turf needs another pass with the stretcher before it’s fully fastened.

3. Seams disappear

Where two pieces meet, brush across the seam with your hand or a broom. A good seam vanishes — the blades from both sides knit together and you can’t tell where one piece ends. If you can see a line or a gap, the seam needs attention before the glue fully cures.

4. Edges fastened tight

Walk every edge and every cut around pavers, posts, and tree wells. The turf should sit snug to hardscape with no lifting or curling. Confirm your non-galvanized nails are driven flush every few inches along perimeters and seams, and every 12–24 inches through the field.

5. Infill brushed all the way down

Part the blades with your fingers. Infill should be seated down at the base of the fibers, not sitting on top — that’s what weights the turf and keeps the blades standing tall. If the blades lie flat, brush in more infill in light passes until they stand up.

6. Drainage and final rinse

Give the lawn a good rinse and watch where the water goes. It should drain through and sheet away from the house — no pooling, no water running toward the foundation. This is your last chance to confirm the grading you set at the start is actually doing its job.

Common problems and how to avoid them

• Wavy or rippled turf — almost always a base problem (uneven compaction) or turf that wasn’t stretched taut. Fix the base before laying; stretch before you fasten.
• Visible seams — edges overlapping or gapping instead of butting cleanly, or blades not brushed across the joint. Butt the edges so blades meet, then brush.
• Lifting edges months later — galvanized nails, too few fasteners, or nails not driven flush. Use non-galvanized, fasten densely along edges.
• Matting and flattening — usually too little infill. Infill is what holds the blades up; brush it all the way down.
• Puddling — base not graded to slope away, or (in AZ) water sitting on a caliche shelf. Grade for fall and dig past caliche.

Pet areas: two changes to the list

If the turf is for dogs, keep the same checklist with two adjustments: lean toward the deeper end of the base range with excellent drainage since the area gets rinsed often, and swap plain sand for a pet-rated, antimicrobial or coated infill to help manage odor. Everything else is identical. For product choice and a deeper look at heat, drainage, and odor, see our guide to artificial turf for dogs in Phoenix or browse artificial pet turf.

Ready to gather your materials?

The fastest way to turn this checklist into an order is to run your numbers first: our artificial turf calculator estimates turf and infill, and the sub-base calculator gives you tons of base. If you’d rather map the whole job — DIY vs. hiring out, scope, and supplies — start with the project planner.

Prefer to have us handle it? See our premium artificial turf installation service — engineered base, hand-finished seams, across Arizona and Utah. Either way, we supply both homeowners and contractors from our Mesa yard, so you can get the materials and the expert guidance regardless of who does the install.

When you’re ready for materials, our team supplies turf, base, and infill across the Arizona service area from our Mesa yard, with free samples and hands-on guidance. Talk to a turf expert and we’ll help you check every box on this list.